Hey all, I recently got a really nice 2012 Casino. It has a Bigsby B7 and the original nut was in the case. I would assume the new nut is an upgrade to a bone-type nut. It plays and sounds wonderful, but after looking more carefully I can see that the string spacing is wider, and to me looks uneven. Notice the 3rd string looks closer to the 4th than the 2nd. Plus I’m not sure the grooves are really straight, but like I said, I would’ve never known it by feel or sound. Should I ’not fix it cause it ain’t broke’? Here’s the original nut held up to the new one.
Opinion On Nut Groove Spacing
- Thread starter Eagle 56
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Seeing as how you are holding the "old " nut in the opposite direction of other & @ the first fret .......there will be a difference .....however slight .
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After sleeping on it, I’ve realized that what ‘sold’ this guitar to me is how well it plays and sounds. No need to risk changing that, so I’m going to leave it be.
Mike Forrester
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Yes, absolutely have it redone by a professional. That nut is a mess. I’m a luthier by trade, and I use a compensated nut slot scale to space the strings slots PERFECTLY on my custom string nuts. Some “techs” don’t take string thickness and ‘side pull’ into consideration when slotting a nut. For example, on a 3+3 headstock, the D and G strings pull sideways from the nut to reach their respective tuning machines. That make those two strings flex inward slightly, toward each other as they leave the nut on their way to the bridge. Therefore, those two slots have to be cut in a slightly ‘sweetened’ location OUTward to achieve proper strong spacing in the 1st fret position. Add to that, the low E string is thicker than the A, and the A is thicker than the D….and so on. The spaces BETWEEN the string nut slots should be adjusted accordingly, hence the compensated nut slot scale. A pro will know about ALL of this…..find one.
"It's only a problem when your fingers recognize that something's wrong."
^^^^ What Norton said here. It's not a mistake that the new nut was cut that way. My luthier always asks me how close to the fretboard edge I want the two E strings, it can give you a lot more finger room across the fretboard. which is helpful in the first position. This will make a HUGE difference in feel when you play, but is obviously something that has to feel comfortable to you. The G and D string grooves are purposely cut angled to reduce the "bend" of the string to those tuning posts as it exits the slot - to reduce binding of the string in the nut. Gibson has been doing this for years on their factory guitars. That nut should play like a dream and hold tuning perfectly.
^^^^ What Norton said here. It's not a mistake that the new nut was cut that way. My luthier always asks me how close to the fretboard edge I want the two E strings, it can give you a lot more finger room across the fretboard. which is helpful in the first position. This will make a HUGE difference in feel when you play, but is obviously something that has to feel comfortable to you. The G and D string grooves are purposely cut angled to reduce the "bend" of the string to those tuning posts as it exits the slot - to reduce binding of the string in the nut. Gibson has been doing this for years on their factory guitars. That nut should play like a dream and hold tuning perfectly.
LP_SPC_1_P90
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That and he's also holding it far enough away from where the nut actually attaches in front of the fretboard. The neck flares out from nut to heel for width. So it's going to be off just for that much.
Equalphone
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The nut in the guitar is terrible. I get shivers just looking at it. The other nut you're holding isn't needed for comparison. It's obvious. Also, with that kind of horrible spacing, it can't possibly have the strings at the correct height. No one who has a clue about nuts would created something that horrific and left it on a guitar. Replace it before it kills again.
You could get a Tusq nut. But you'll need a digital caliper to accurately measure for a replacement (Harbor Freight, $20). . That is, unless someone around here can tell you which one you need as a replacement. You'll then need to do some sanding of the replacement (we can advise you on how-to) to fit it.
If that sounds beyond your skills, find a qualified local luthier who can do it for you. That should not be a chain store like GC. I'm guessing the rest of your setup is also less than optimal. You'll know it was all worth it when you get the guitar back and it plays that much better.
You could get a Tusq nut. But you'll need a digital caliper to accurately measure for a replacement (Harbor Freight, $20). . That is, unless someone around here can tell you which one you need as a replacement. You'll then need to do some sanding of the replacement (we can advise you on how-to) to fit it.
If that sounds beyond your skills, find a qualified local luthier who can do it for you. That should not be a chain store like GC. I'm guessing the rest of your setup is also less than optimal. You'll know it was all worth it when you get the guitar back and it plays that much better.
I’ve done my own setups for a long time, I just hate dealing with nuts. I decided it was best though and put a Tusq XL nut in it, so all is good now. Thanks
I’ve done my own setups for a long time, Mike, I just hate dealing with nuts. I went ahead and put a Tusq XL nut on it and all is good now. Thanks
Raiyn
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That would have been my preference as well.
