1998 Epiphone SG G-400

[IGRocker]

I think a G-400 is worthy of whatever pickups you feel like spending the dosh on to put in it. Play it first, make sure there's no major issues that need attention (unlevel frets, etc) before putting in better stuff. The pots are OK, usually Alphas or no-names. The nice thing on these older Epis is that they didn't use the trademark crap quality push/pull pots they use on newer "Pro" G-400s. Those pots will come apart the first time you try to pull off a knob.

As for the wiring I use the braided push back wire. You can order it by the foot or a big giant role you'll never use up. I tend to order the CTS SAE sizde pots and ream out the holes so they fit. If you wanna just rewire the whole thing, you can order these things from amplified parts or stewmac:

4 each of: CTS Audio taper 250k/500k pots (get 500k). Some people prefer linear. Those people are wrong, but here's the link to the linear ones. Note that CTS makes long shaft pots. These are only needed for Gibson Les Pauls

2 each of 716P Series, Polypropylene Film (aka orange drop caps) recommend 0.047uF but anything from 0.010uF to 0.100uF will work. If you want to experiment get some test leads and don't solder there in to start, just clip them in place to see how they work. Higher values cut more high frequencies and make the tone "darker" as you roll it back. 0.047 is traditional for humbuckers. Many people like a lower value for the neck pickup, and often a higher value for the bridge pickup. There is no "right or wrong" here. It's a taste thing and has as much to do with your ears as our pickups and guitar. Luckily caps are cheap so buy a few of each.

some wire. I like this braided wire with cloth insulation which they sell by the foot. The more modern plastic stuff works fine too. Price on those is by the foot. Get 3 or 4 feet so you don't run out if something goes terribly wrong.

Get a good switchcraft jack and switch. < Note that I had to include the Amazon url for the switch because for reasons unknown AP doesn't carry the short switch. Note that a switchcraft switch will need a new SAE tip, the old one won't fit.

.047 average for humbuckers?? I've never heard of them that high. It's usually .022 for a humbucker. Single coils typically use .033 or .047 caps. Otherwise, I pretty much agree with what you said. My preference for humbuckers is .015 for the neck and .022 for the bridge.

 

[IGRocker]

Do you think the 1998 G-400 is worthy of the the 80's SD? Also I was looking at Swiftcraft jacks and what size do I get long or short, and for the stock pots that are in there are the Alpha pots or just no name? If they are alpha not point then buying new ones. What about wiring, what gauge and where is a good place to buy it?

I put a set of Wizz Premium Clone P.A.F. humbuckers in my LP Custom Pro.... If you like the guitar, then go for it. The swap could only make it better!

 

[SylenCommando]

Don't the switchcraft switches come with the tip? I was on ebay and a tip is on the switch in the listing photo, do you need to ream out the holes for the switch to fit? I already have caps green NOS NEC chicklet .022uf. I have used these type of caps in many guitars and they came stock in my Kramer guitars.

 

[ScottMarlowe]

Yeah sorry got humbucker and single coil backward up there.

And some switches come with tips like the one I posted from amazon, some don't like from stewmac.

 

[SylenCommando]

Will it hurt the valve modding the guitar? Not sure about epiphones value in the long run. I mean I have a 1992 MIJ Jackson that is mint condition and stock, and I just wanted to keep it all original. I would assume epiphones resale value probably isn't great. Just wondering if I should upgrade it, it is 18 years old now and I am not sure if it would hurt its value, since it will be vintage in 8 years.

 

[BGood]

It's not like a $5000 guitar. You mod it, it's for your enjoyment. The value won't be worst if the guitar physically looks the same. If you were to strip, its finish or reshape something, then maybe. If the electronics are of better quality than original, it will help the guitar keep it's value.

But if you think you'll keep it for another 30 or 40 years and want to make a profit reselling it, then keep all the components you remove in a safe dry place and put them back on the guitar for resale.

 

[SylenCommando]

ok. Just a question can any one with a Epiphone sg G-400 post a picture of the top view where the neck meets the body, on mine it looks like the neck bends back where the neck and body meet if this is an Issue I am going to return the guitar, not sure if its suppose to be like that never owned epiphone. Also I got a flash light last night and looked at those cracks in the neck pocket, and I think its under the clear coat.

 

[ScottMarlowe]

That's normal. There should be a 3 to 5 degree angle where the neck meets the body.

 

[SylenCommando]

oh ok, thanks Scott. I wasn't sure about that. I have owned Jackson, and chavels and kramers and the necks were always straight where they meet the body. They were also bolt on necks except for my charvel.

 

[BGood]

Yep angled is normal.

 

[SylenCommando]

Thanks, I thought I had another issue on my hands lol.

 

[BGood]

You have a good guitar in your hands, stop looking for bugs and play the heck out of it.

NOW !

 

[IGRocker]

Enjoy it! And if something does happen, you can learn how to fix it! That's half the fun of it to me

 

[SylenCommando]

I played it for 4 hours tonight, sounds awesome with the stock pickups, not sure if I should install that SD pickup now. Are these the pro pickups are just the cheap ones, also I forgot to ask what year is this modeled after 1966?

 

[ScottMarlowe]

Should be modelled aftr 1961/62 or so. I don't know if Epiphone makes an SG with a later 960s tyle bod. Even the 1966 G-400 pro has an early 60s body/neck joint.

The pickups are likely the earlier Alnico Classics. Lots of people like those pickups. Lots of people don't. I'm in the middle. Don't love or hate them, but wouldn't cry if I wound up replacing them. Note though that a LOT of flks replace them so unless you've pulled one and looked you can't really be sure what they are.

 

[SylenCommando]

What should I look for on the pickup? model I mean.

 

[SylenCommando]

also is there any way to tell if the post are alpha pots? There just seems to be numbers on the pot, don't alpha normal have alpha on the pot?

 

[SylenCommando]

I found some NOS orange drop caps 22uf there is no model on the cap only says Sprague .22uf 400vdc +/- 20%, and another seller has Sprague 220P "Orange Drop” Capacitors 200 V .22 uf. Do you guys get the NOS or the new ones? Also what the difference between the 220p and 716p?

 

[ScottMarlowe]

I buy new caps myself, and Orange Drops are a much newer design so age isn't really a factor with them. But you want 0.022uF, not 0.22uF.

 

[RTH]

oh ok, thanks Scott. I wasn't sure about that. I have owned Jackson, and chavels and kramers and the necks were always straight where they meet the body. They were also bolt on necks except for my charvel.

They shouldnt be straight either. Even bolt-necks should at least have a 2 degree angle out of the neck pocket. Fender even states this somewhere on their website. However, if the frets are leveled with enough fall away, you can run a straight neck out of the pocket.

Since I'm late to this thread, I would like to briefly address the chrome vs. nickle hardware question. Older Epiphones did have chrome hardware. I think it was around 2010 when they changed the majority of the guitars to nickel. Some of the lower end models will still have chrome hardware, but the G-400 will have nickel these days. A 1998 G-400 will be chrome. It is hard to tell the difference without an example of each to compare to, but generally, chrome will have a blueish hue and nickel will have a yellowish hue. Since they both look like shiny silver, its easier to tell them apart when you have one of each to look at.