I used the original bushings (inserts) but, when I work on my ‘59, I think I’ll order up the higher quality Faber bushings. They’re only about $20 and couldn't hurt.
From all the videos I watched, it didn‘t think it was too risky. I plan on doing it the Next couple of weeks. I’ll let you know how it goes and what improvements I find, if any.
It's super easy and ot at all risky unless you're as clumbsy as a drunken grizzly. As to the improvement, i love what one set of faber bushings on the bridge did for the tone and ordered a second set due next week for the stop bar. (and a aluminum stop bar, tho thats a 50/50 proposition) I really thing epiphones and a lot of other budget overseas guitars are hindered tonally more because of the hardware than pickups or anything else. In the case of epis with TOM i thing it;s a huge improvement. The bridge bushings helped get it sounding about 1/2 way there to a quality USA LP tone and if the rest doesn't get 100% of the way there i will likely go with a bridge too
I think you may be misunderstanding.....i think most like me replace them not because we think they wont fit new studs, but because the stock bushings are pot metal and steel bushings sound clearer and more lively.
But it does, at least some parts do. Your issue is the same one that has me upgrading. The bushings are IMO important because they are the bottleneck between the strings and body. They're light pot metal and the fabers are carbon steel. Just one set for the bridge made a notable difference and have a second set on the way for the tailpeice. So far with the aluminum stop bar and bridge bushing it's made a considerable difference, and no doubt if you do it all it will be huge. IMO and from many years of experience upgrading import guitars, it's always been the hardware thats been the bottleneck that separates their tone from their USA counterparts. With the epiphone theres a lot of parts there holding them back. At the very least i'd replace both the bridge ad tailpiece bushings. For $40 it's gonna be a cheap and good improvement. I would do that if i were you then if you need more try a 3 piece set of titanium saddles for the wound strings if u can find a set tat will fit.
I'm sure you have something more than anecdotal evidence to back this claim? "Your ears" and confirmation bias don't count as evidence. That "pot-metal" bit is straight off their front page too isn't it?
Yeah, I guess for 40 bucks it's the first thing to try. I just got the impression from what I've read that it wouldn't be a big improvement. I'll give it a shot, a lot cheaper and easier than a pickup swap. Keep us posted, especially if you decide to get into a pickup swap. If anyone knows if the short scale has to with the mushy bottom on Epi Les Pauls. I'm used to teles and strats, so I might be expecting to much.
I'm sure you have something more than anecdotal evidence to back this claim? "Your ears" and confirmation bias don't count as evidence. That "pot-metal" bit is straight off their front page too isn't it?
I find it quite amusing that Gibson, doesn't (that I could find) doesn't offer Faber on their Custom Shop / Murphy Lab offerings. Since the bushings are magic - surely they'd see the benefit - especially when they can charge for it.
Here's my real issue: Bushings are press fit, and sit against end grain, so anything you do to remove them •can• screw up the hole - regardless of what model it is. Having dealt with a few that have gone loose or out of round, I leave them alone whenever possible. The alleged juice isn't worth the squeeze.
Whatever new bridge you get, as long as you don't go mixing metric and standard, the studs will thread into the stock bushings. I don't care if it's Faber or Fooqing, Gotoh or Getrekked, they all fit standard bushings - which is why its a standard.
My TonePros rollers are mounted in stock bushings, they could even be on the stock studs for all it mattered. They're not, but they just as easily could be. I'm not arguing against using the studs that come with the bridge, it's just not necessary to replace the bushings. Obviously Faber is aware that it's not necessary to replace the bushings otherwise they wouldn't sell their "EZ" kits at about $120 that you screw into the existing bushings.
"But I saw on the internet that I can pull them with a <insert barnyard methodology>"
My favorite of these is the "long bolt method" * which is quite similar to the "Canadian Crunch" method shown below.
* For such a "high-end" outfit Faber actually ships their inserts with a hardware store bolt to do the removal.
You •might• get away with it on a couple guitars, or for years, but eventually you'll find one where something goes wrong - and let me tell you, that ain't fun. No, really it sucks.
There's a better way of doing it for those instances where it's actually necessary - like a bad ground wire situation.
I don't sell tools, nor do I endorse any particular brands, but this is the puller I use.
ElmerGuitar Guitar Knob Puller & Bushing Puller - 2 in 1 | eBay
This Knob Bushing Puller is designed for remove guitar knobs and bushings without damaging, the clear housing has a rubberized bottom to protect your guitar finish, the square unit inside the housing has 2 ends, one end for pulling knob and the other for pulling bushings, with the provided...www.ebay.com
And here's (probably) the same one sold from Canada.
Guitar Knob and Bushing Puller with Thick Rubber Base | eBay
The square unit has 2 ends; one end for pulling knobs, the other end can work with the attached hardware to easily extract Gibson, Schaller or Gotoh bridge and tailpiece stud bushings. The Included anchors to fit bushes with the thread sizes are.www.ebay.com
There's also the StewMac version for twice as much
Schatten Knob and Bushing Puller - StewMac
Remove a stubborn knob without damaging the plastic, or your finish. Pulls bushings, too!www.stewmac.com
It's a two-in-one video. They lead with the "cheap" knob puller.
I'm sure you could save a buck or three getting them straight outta China, but that's your call.
That said, when I do use a bushing puller, I try to only use it if there's something like the aforementioned ground wire issue. In those instances, I take it real slow on the extraction and wrap the wire up the opposite side to give something else to wedge in there. I also don't go smashing them back in like a caveman.
If after all that you still want to pull your bushings for a squirrel's fart worth of difference that you'd never hear recorded much less through an amp - go ahead.
