Maxed out truss rod on Les Paul 100. Replace the neck or return the guitar?

PorkRinds

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I got a used Les Paul 100 for around $160. It was in pretty poor shape; the frets were dull and it has quite a few dings. I was setting it up and ended up maxing out the truss rod. Usually on a new guitar, I can get the neck perfectly straight with a 1/8 turn, but I have to turn the truss rod on this guitar over and over again. It's so tight that I can't turn it any more and the neck is still a bit bowed.

I was considering replacing the neck since I got a good deal on the guitar, but I'm not sure where to get a replacement or what to look for.

There's also the option of returning the guitar.
 

syco

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I got a used Les Paul 100 for around $160. It was in pretty poor shape; the frets were dull and it has quite a few dings. I was setting it up and ended up maxing out the truss rod. Usually on a new guitar, I can get the neck perfectly straight with a 1/8 turn, but I have to turn the truss rod on this guitar over and over again. It's so tight that I can't turn it any more and the neck is still a bit bowed.

I was considering replacing the neck since I got a good deal on the guitar, but I'm not sure where to get a replacement or what to look for.

There's also the option of returning the guitar.
Underbow or overbow ?
 

syco

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Correct me if I'm wrong and neck is straight / level / flat .......... if using allen wrench/ hex key shaped like " L " . Turning upright part of " L " towards G string = backbow . Towards D string = upbow .
 
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syco

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Hate to ask , but have you tried lowering bridge ? If you haven't figured anything out yet . Loosen strings off a few rounds . Loosen truss rod so it has no tension ( turns either direction with no resistance ) . Tighten strings just enough that they aren't slack . Sight down the neck either from headstock or bridge . Neck and strings should run parallel . If neck bows up toward strings , you need to add relief #3 on above diagram . If it bows away from strings .. # 2 . You want a slight underbow . Once you get that ....... if strings are too high off fretboard , lower the bridge to preference . Tune. Check neck again ..... repeat as necessary .
 

PorkRinds

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Hate to ask , but have you tried lowering bridge ? If you haven't figured anything out yet . Loosen strings off a few rounds . Loosen truss rod so it has no tension ( turns either direction with no resistance ) . Tighten strings just enough that they aren't slack . Sight down the neck either from headstock or bridge . Neck and strings should run parallel . If neck bows up toward strings , you need to add relief #3 on above diagram . If it bows away from strings .. # 2 . You want a slight underbow . Once you get that ....... if strings are too high off fretboard , lower the bridge to preference . Tune. Check neck again ..... repeat as necessary .
Yes, I've tried lowering the bridge. I'm using a notched straightedge to check for relief. There center notches aren't touching the fretboard even after maxing out the truss rod.
 

Noodling Guitars

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Yes, I've tried lowering the bridge. I'm using a notched straightedge to check for relief. There center notches aren't touching the fretboard even after maxing out the truss rod.
Did you check the relief/ action the top of the frets using a straight edge as well? It's a bit counterintuitive because you're doing it the "correct way" - i.e. assuming that the fretboard is straight/flat in relation to the frets. However, on some of these more budget models, esp. if used and a bit older, the wood could've moved such that the fretboard is slightly warped, but without the frets being an issue. In other words, assuming you don't return it, so long as the truss rod is functional and the frets are level, and you can get the amount of action/relief you want, then it's kind of an "it is what it is" situation. However, if your frets are not level, then the neck's probably shot and you'd probably be spending more money/time repairing it than what its worth.
 

PorkRinds

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Did you check the relief/ action the top of the frets using a straight edge as well? It's a bit counterintuitive because you're doing it the "correct way" - i.e. assuming that the fretboard is straight/flat in relation to the frets. However, on some of these more budget models, esp. if used and a bit older, the wood could've moved such that the fretboard is slightly warped, but without the frets being an issue. In other words, assuming you don't return it, so long as the truss rod is functional and the frets are level, and you can get the amount of action/relief you want, then it's kind of an "it is what it is" situation. However, if your frets are not level, then the neck's probably shot and you'd probably be spending more money/time repairing it than what its worth.
The frets are level. I went over them with a fret rocker last night. I can't get the right action/relief right now. I've rightened the truss rod as far as it will go and there's still upbow.

The Les Paul 100 has a bolt-on neck so I was going to check out the local music shop junk bin to see if they have any necks that fit. I typically see listings for Les Paul 100s for around $300-400 around here. I like the rest of the guitar so I figured it'd be cheaper to just replace the neck.
 

Noodling Guitars

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The frets are level. I went over them with a fret rocker last night. I can't get the right action/relief right now. I've rightened the truss rod as far as it will go and there's still upbow.

The Les Paul 100 has a bolt-on neck so I was going to check out the local music shop junk bin to see if they have any necks that fit. I typically see listings for Les Paul 100s for around $300-400 around here. I like the rest of the guitar so I figured it'd be cheaper to just replace the neck.

$300-400? That's Canadian right (MSRP is US$299 for a brand new one).

Have you tried Ebay/Amazon for replacement necks? There should be a variety of those available but you might need to do a bit of fretwork.

Something like this might work (but you'd have to measure the neck pocket to see).

 

PorkRinds

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$300-400? That's Canadian right (MSRP is US$299 for a brand new one).

Have you tried Ebay/Amazon for replacement necks? There should be a variety of those available but you might need to do a bit of fretwork.

Something like this might work (but you'd have to measure the neck pocket to see).


Google Shopping shows a bunch of listings for around $300-400 USD, some even reaching $500 with shipping.

I have checked Ebay and Amazon, but some of the other threads about Les Paul 100 replacement necks seem to indicate there have been changes in the neck pocket dimensions throughout the years. I don't want to end up buying a neck that won't fit and not being able to return it.
 

Noodling Guitars

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Google Shopping shows a bunch of listings for around $300-400 USD, some even reaching $500 with shipping.

I have checked Ebay and Amazon, but some of the other threads about Les Paul 100 replacement necks seem to indicate there have been changes in the neck pocket dimensions throughout the years. I don't want to end up buying a neck that won't fit and not being able to return it.

Definitely - that's why if you go down that route, you need to disassemble and measure first. But if returning the guitar is an option, maybe that's the way to go.


Something like this would be a much better deal than spending $50-60 on a neck over a $160 guitar...
 

BGood

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I've rightened the truss rod as far as it will go and there's still upbow.
Sorry to insist, but I'm still not sure about what you're doing. Please explain which way "rightening" the truss rod is to you.
To me tightening a screw is going at it clockwise. What you want on your truss rod is going counterclockwise.
 

PorkRinds

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Sorry to insist, but I'm still not sure about what you're doing. Please explain which way "rightening" the truss rod is to you.
To me tightening a screw is going at it clockwise. What you want on your truss rod is going counterclockwise.
That was a typo. I’m turning it counterclockwise. I’m turning the Allen key towards the low strings.
 
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BGood

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That was a typo. I’m turning it counterclockwise. I’m turning the Allen key towards the low strings.
What am I m missing here ? Counterclockwise in my book is turning left. Turning towards the low E string is turning to the right, thus clockwise, no ?

Unless you're in Australia :facepalm:
 

PorkRinds

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What am I m missing here ? Counterclockwise in my book is turning left. Turning towards the low E string is turning to the right, thus clockwise, no ?

Unless you're in Australia :facepalm:
I think the confusion is from the orientation of the guitar. I have the headstock facing away from me when I am adjusting the truss rod, so I turn the Allen key counterclockwise towards the low E.
 

BGood

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I think the confusion is from the orientation of the guitar. I have the headstock facing away from me when I am adjusting the truss rod, so I turn the Allen key counterclockwise towards the low E.
You must be the first person ever I hear that adjusts a truss rod from that end of the neck.

So ... again ... you're turning the wrong way.

That'll be it for me, good luck.
 

PorkRinds

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You must be the first person ever I hear that adjusts a truss rod from that end of the neck.

So ... again ... you're turning the wrong way.

That'll be it for me, good luck.
I am turning it the right way. The neck had too much relief when I first got it. I adjusted the truss rod and got it straighter over time, but the rod eventually seized and I couldn’t adjust it further. I am using a notched straightedge and checking the relief every time I turn the truss rod.
 


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