Turning towards D A E (low) strings will cause upbow . Turning towards G B E (high) will in induce relief ( underbow ) Don't make drastic turns . 1/8 - 1/4 at a time . Let it sit ( 30 minutes ) between each adjustment .
Turning towards D A E (low) strings will cause upbow . Turning towards G B E (high) will in induce relief ( underbow ) Don't make drastic turns . 1/8 - 1/4 at a time . Let it sit ( 30 minutes ) between each adjustment .
It's not seized . It's maxed out . Either learn to live with it , return it , or get another neck , which could possibly have same problem .View attachment 17861
The guitar had too much relief when I first got it, like in the third picture here. I got it straighter after turning the truss rod towards the lower strings. I did 1/8 turns and let it sit every time. The neck is still not completely straight, so I went to turn the truss rod again but it’s seized; it won’t turn any further.
I did that on my own and people here thought I was nutz !!!!!!!The other thing is you may want to talk to a luthier about heat pressing the neck, which involves loosening the truss rod, and putting the neck in a jig that both heats the neck and applies pressure where required to straighten out the neck.
lol I thought you benchpressed the neck sans heat thoI did that on my own and people here thought I was nutz !!!!!!!
When I do it ..... which has been twice so far . I do a day out in the sun ( sometimes gets 110 F ) and a day indoors . I will state I did not do it for trying to straighten a neck , but as an experiment into seeing if it would relieve some of the tightness in the neck . I do 60 lbs of weight .lol I thought you benchpressed the neck sans heat tho
the heat press/neck iron is actually very involved - it's also a very expensive process. While it's an option, it's definitely not economical esp since the whole guitar was only $160... It's expensive because of the time involved (it's usually not a one step process - and does involve some luck).
And where is the fun in that . Cheap guitars are the best to learn / experiment on . I honestly don't think there is anyone even remotely considered a "Luthier " within 4 or 5 hours of where I live and that's being optimistic . I'm a redneck / hillbilly or whatever term you wish to use . I drive 20 miles for basic goods . I grew up making do with what you had . If you drove 50 miles and got a load lumber , 99% of time when you got to the last few pieces , they were bowed . Do you drive 100 miles roundtrip to exchange them ? Nope ! Get several cinder blocks . Place each end of board on cinder blocks , stack some cinder blocks in the middle of board and let sit for a while . I'll be damned !!!!!! That took the bow out .In the end with a guitar this inexpensive, it is probably best to send it back and get a refund.
Looks like properly will be under the pickup front wheel for him.Just remember, you are looking at something more than the value of the guitar to get this done properly.
I got a welding torch I can apply some heat with !!!Looks like properly will be under the pickup front wheel for him.
I'm sure what your saying is true, but there are many complicated procedures that can be broken down to their basic principals and be used effectively. Perhaps not as effectively as a professional job with all the proper tools etc.. but maybe just effectivly enough to get the job done.Your guitar, do what you want. I was just pointing out that with a $160 guitar, getting the neck properly heat pressed (without a 100% guarantee of success) for more than the price of the guitar, or even buying (or making for that matter) a neck heat press is probably not cost effective, and you did say you had the option of returning the guitar. If this is a learning experience for you, or you want to get the tooling to do stuff like this in the future, more power to you. Just remember, you are looking at something more than the value of the guitar to get this done properly.